Your Introduction to Climbing in the Southern Lakes

The Southern Lakes region of New Zealand has an amazing diversity of climbing terrain and most of it within is reasonably easy reach of Outside Sports stores in Te Anau, Queenstown, Wānaka and Tekapo. In fact, what attracts climbers from all over the world is the sheer variety of climbing styles packed into a relatively small area. From high-consequence alpine routes to roadside bouldering and via ferrata adventures, there’s something here for everyone, whether you're seasoned international pro or casual recreational climber.

Get Advice From People Who’re Out There Doing it

At Outside Sports many of our team members are regularly climbing and hiking throughout the mountains of the Southern Lakes. If you have any questions about where to go, what gear you need, and the current local conditions just call into our stores and get their advice. We love helping people enjoy climbing in the Southern Lakes mountains as much as we do.

In this article we’ll cover the main types of climbing in the region

Alpine climbing

Traditional and Sport climbing

Bouldering

Via Ferrata

Alpine Climbing in the Southern Lakes

Alpine climbing is the jewel in the Southern Lakes’ climbing crown with abundant classic snow, ice, and mixed routes. Peaks like Mt Aspiring, Mt Earnslaw, and Mt Sefton provide everything from long glacier approaches and steep couloirs to technical rock and ice faces. However it's important to realise that conditions are highly seasonal and weather-dependent and they can change very, very quickly from amazing to life-threatening in a couple of hours. That means alpine climbing here demands solid mountaineering skills, a willingness to turn back if things don’t feel right, and understanding the local weather. In good conditions though, the climbing is totally epic. You’ll enjoy big days, huge exposure, and magnificent 'edge of the world' views that stretch from jagged ridgelines to the beautiful Southern Lakes stretching out below.

Trad and Sport Climbing

Wānaka is a mecca for climbers who want shorter objectives and more accessible challenges. The schist rock of Hospital Flat and nearby the crags offer a variety of multi-pitch trad routes with clean cracks and featured faces. There are also single-pitch sport climbs that are ideal for quick sessions. While the area doesn’t have the scale of some international sport climbing destinations, the quality of the rock and the easy access make it a favourite with locals and visiting climbers alike.

Bouldering

Bouldering on the schist blocs around Wānaka, Luggate, and near Queenstown will give you a satisfying dose of technical, balance-heavy problems on bullet-hard rock. The vibe tends towards delicate footwork and subtle body positioning rather than strength. Many of the boulders the locals target are located in picturesque tussock or riverbed spots, with lake views, alpine backdrops, and minimal crowds to get in your way.

Basecamp indoor climbing centre is another option for bad weather days and honing your skills in a controlled environment. Our friends at Basecamp shares a building with Cardrona/Treble Cone HQ on the outskirts of Wanaka town.

Via Ferrata

If you feel like a taste of vertical exposure without the technical barriers, via ferrata is a great option. With permanently fixed steel cables, ladders, and suspension bridges to guide climbers up steep terrain, via ferrata gives you an accessible way to experience height and exposure with relatively low risk, making it accessible to adventurous beginners and kids, as well as being a fun rest-day option for more experienced and skilled climbers. You find via ferrata routes in Queenstwon and Wanaka.

Scrambling

Many peaks and ridgelines in the Southern Lakes can be climbed or hiked with minimal gear. These routes are perfect for developing alpine skills and exploring off-the-beaten-track terrain.